Reefing points

After the adventure on my second trip out, I also decided to add reefing points. I located the points just inside the leach and the luff, and then (3) equidistant points in between. I measured the points 24″ above the guide rope a the foot. My wife sowed 4″ hemmed squares of duck cloth in a diamond pattern with a zig zag stitch around the squares. I then pressed in Dritz 7/16″ Extra Large Eyelets for grommets. She then sowed a zig zag pattern around the grommets. I used 48″ sections of 3/16″ rope, lapping 24″ to each side. I placed a figure 8 knot on each side to hold them to the sail. I have never had to reef the sail, but it is a comfort to know that they are there if we are caught out in bad weather. We do use them to tie the mainsail to the boom when we drop anchor to eat lunch.

Trailer Upgrades

The trailer is a 1963 Boston Whaler trailer. I added walk boards to the front so that I can launch the boat without stepping in the water. I also added tapered shims under boards under the boat to fitt the bottom. I covered the boards with outdoor carpet. I lowered the roller assemblies in the rear so that I can float the boat on and off the trailer. I do not know the tongue weight, but I can easily pick up the tongue with my bad back.

Topping Lift

I drilled and tapped the mast head at the top for an eye strap. I tied a 1/4″ rope to the eye stap and the other end to a snap shackle. The snap shackle hooks to the old metal plate bolted to the end of the mast where the main sheet system was once attached.

Rudder Shear Pin

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Hike Out Seat on Gunwales

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I had trouble with the splash rail bruising my back side. I created a seat on the gunwales outside the splash rail to take the pressure off created by the narrow rail.  The following is an insert from the Javelin Sailors Group entry. I spoke with Dan Reiber over the phone. He gave me another idea for the pool noodle at the splash rail. He said to insert at pvc pipe in the hole in the pool noodle. This will add some density to the foam rubber and reduce the rope cutting into the foam with use. I only have one pool noodle left. I removed the starboard side solid noodle and replaced it with the hollow core noodle. This noodle is about 3 1/4″ in diameter. I inserted a 3/4″ schedule 40 pvc pipe about 1″ longer than the noodle. I pushed the rope through the pipe and tied off the snap shackle a couple inches short of the eye strap, then pulled the rope compressing the foam rubber. This bent the noodle to conform with the curved splash rail and gave it a tight fit. I also, at Dan’s suggestion, tied a rope to the middle and cleated it off in the spinnaker cam cleat. This will help keep the foam rubber from pushing out. 

Tiller Clutch

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I decided to try to make a tiller clutch work using things that I had on hand. 

First I a fixed block and a short piece of 1/4″ cord that was just long enough to make it from the 2 corners aft to the tiller just aft of the tiller extender. I liked the concept of the TillerClutch but I could not come up with a reasonable cam action to pinch off the cord, which I assume is the principle that they used. I decided that a simple wedge might work on the closed end of the block. I then found an old stainless steel strap. I ground it down to fit, bent it double, then placed another piece of metal between the pieces creating a wedge. It worked. I drilled a hole through the system and inserted a small bolt and nut to keep it together. The stainless steel has some spring to it, which helps keep the shim in place. I fitted it between the closed end of the block and the pulley wheel. It bound the cord fairly well. The cords are tied to an old block in the aft corners that used to be part of the main sheet system before I  switched to mid boom. I also use the blocks for tie offs for the mid boom system.